Estelle sits near the doorsteps of the Tulu House with her two beloved dogs.
A Dream Life
“This lodge is my home and I treat guests like friends at my home,” Estelle told China Today as she and her dog watched workers painting the house’s exterior walls which is a regular maintenance. “My goal is not to make a lot of money, but to have a quality life which, for me, means a bond with other people, environment-conscious behavior, and good food.”
Estelle used to work as an architect in France and was involved in many building projects like those for banks. After years of high-pressure work in the competitive architectural field, at the age of 44, she decided to pursue the quality of life that she had long yearned for.
About 30 years ago, she traveled to Yunnan for the first time and was stunned by its enchanting natural beauty and friendly people. In 2000, she moved to this retreat at hillside Benzilan around 2,000 meters above sea level, a delightful stopover for travelers en route to the famous Shangri-La.
“This house has a river and a small road nearby and is surrounded by trees. The neighbor is not too close. Good position,” Estelle said.
An Ecological Lodge
The property is an old Tibetan three-story farmhouse and Estelle preserves its rustic nature in an environmentally responsible way. “Whether I’m renovating it or using it, my aim is to minimize the impact on the environment,” Estelle explained.
When she first began to rent to this place, it took her a few years to renovate it. Estelle said, “I’m an architect, so renovation is not so difficult for me, but I want an organic renovation, which requires more time and energy to find suitable material.” Prioritizing quality over speed, she slowly renovated the house at a pace of one room a year.
Estelle tries not to use modern materials to save energy and reduce carbon emissions. “It takes a lot of energy to manufacture these products at factories which is detrimental to the planet,” she said.
The house is built and remodeled from earth, clay, and wood. She bought clay collected in Benzilan from locals and bought used wood pieces from the area. “Some houses have been abandoned or destroyed, so I bought old wood from this kind of houses. I tried to avoid using new wood,” she added.
During the renovation process, Estelle removed severely damaged wood beams from the roof, walls and staircase which threatened the safety of the building.
Even the locks used on doors and windows at the lodge are wooden. “The locals still use this traditional wooden lock, so I follow suit,” she said.
A Mix of Styles
Tulu Lodge has four guestrooms, each with a different theme: One is a Tibetan-style room, one has a combination of French and Tibetan styles, and one brings you back to the 1960s, “reminiscent of a granny’s room” and a smaller one decorated with embroidery works of south Yunnan, Estelle added.
This is a Tibetan community, so she retains many Tibetan elements in the house. In the Tibetan room, there’s an exquisite mat left by her landlord. “Its cover is made from yak fur, and inside is ‘qing ke cao (highland barley unique to Xizang).” The mat is a very typical Tibetan household item.”
Most of the decorative items are antique furniture and ornaments, including a quaint painted Tibetan cupboard, a Thangka (a traditional Tibetan Buddhist painting) and black-and-white portrait photos.
Estelle explained that she did not remodel the kitchen because she wanted to keep it in its original Tibetan style. Instead, she built a new kitchen in another place of the house. A large copper pot left by her landlord is one of her favorite features she said, adding, “I can cook a large serving of jam with it at one time.”
Homemade French Meals
Though far from her hometown in France, Estelle recreates her country’s delicious signature dishes in her kitchen at Benzilan.
Guests at Tulu can feast on a variety of homemade French cuisine prepared and cooked by Estelle and served in a typical French manner. “In France, a dinner meal typically contains at least four courses – an appetizer such as a soup or a salad, a main course, a cheese course, and a dessert. I keep this tradition except cheese at Tulu.” Often, it takes Estelle up to three hours to prepare dinner. “Food is very important for me,” she added.
Most of her dishes are inspired by Provencal cuisine. “Both my mother and grandmother are from Provence, so I normally cook meals in the Provence way,” Estelle said.
All the ingredients for meals are sourced from local markets or Estelle’s garden. “I often use free-range black chicken, yak meat and fish like large trout-salmon caught in nearby rivers as ingredients for main courses. And Yunnan has numerous types of mushrooms which add special flavor to the dishes.”
To give guests that authentic feeling of dining with friends or family, Estelle serves each course in one large dish instead of individual plates. “It’s very much like having a meal at home, not like in a restaurant,” she said.
Garden, Jam, and Wine
Most of her cooking ingredients can be found locally in Benziwan, and she grows Mediterranean herbs and spices in her garden. The lovely garden also has peach trees that can be found locally in Benzilan, and lemon trees native to the Lancang River basins.
Estelle is known for her tasty jams and pies in all kinds of flavors including apple, strawberry, peach, plum, and orange. “Many people often ask to buy my homemade jam and wine, but I don’t want to monetize it as I only make it for fun and serve it only to my guests and myself,” Estelle said.
“I bought about 15 kilograms of organic oranges of different kinds from a local market this week. I will cook six to seven kilograms of them for jam each time in the large copper pot,” Estelle continued. She also makes grape and peach jam using the grapes and peaches grown in her garden.
In addition to jam, Estelle also experiments with wine brewing. She explains that certain areas near the Lancang River in Yunnan have favorable environmental conditions for grapes used to brew wine, attracting even some French growers to produce high-quality wines. Rather than using oak barrels traditionally used for wine brewing, Estelle uses pottery jars commonly used by local residents. “In this way, the wine doesn’t smell the wood, but has a unique texture,” she said.
An Ideal Retreat for Urban Dwellers
Nestled among the hills, Tulu Lodge offers a serene escape for travelers weary of urban chaos and impersonal hotel stays. This eco-conscious retreat invites guests to unwind in harmony with nature, blending rustic charm with mindful living.
Jaffeny Li from Shanghai stayed at Tulu Lodge for two nights on her trip in Yunnan. Dining al fresco in garden, gazing stars at night on rooftop, and falling asleep with the soothing sound of the flow of river, “the slow-paced and laid-back vibe here makes me feel refreshed,” she said. “And it is also an unusual experience of both Tibetan and French cultures.”
Without any professional marketing or advertising team, the posts of Tulu Lodge have secured over 12 million views with many viewers converting into eager guests. Estelle does not plan to expand the “business,” but remains committed to adopting and promoting sustainable lifestyles. “I’m glad to see like-minded people to come my place and also welcome others come to experience a sustainable lifestyle.”