A slow train traveling to and from China’s northern borderland is a constant witness to the changing times.
Passing through the vast grasslands of northern China, there is a slow passenger train whose ticket price has never been raised for over three decades. Connecting many places, the train is a constant witness to the changing times.
The train from Hohhot to Erenhot.
A Stable Guardian
This train, slow though it is, has been an important means of transport for the local Mongolian ethnic people. It is known as the Boat of the Grassland. At 8:40 a.m. every day, train No. 6865 departs from Hohhot Station right on schedule, heading northward across a winding route through rolling grasslands. It covers 472 kilometers, taking nine hours and 45 minutes, and finally stops at Erenhot, a city along the border of China and Mongolia.
In spite of the rapid development of railways, this slow train, like a stable guardian, has shuttled passengers between 28 remote stations since the 1990s. The fare for the whole journey is RMB 53, costing about RMB 0.11 per kilometer.
As a convenient mode of transportation for residents living in remote areas to travel to obtain medical treatment, find work, visit relatives, and pursue education, it has opened a door to the outside world for those who have dreams and aspirations for a better life. This train is also a means for locals to bring their agricultural products to various markets, increase incomes, and move forward on the road to prosperity. For students, it is a “school train” that propels them in their pursuit of knowledge. Children in the small villages along the line ride this train to attend schools in Saihantala, Ulanqab, and other places. The carriage has become a temporary classroom for countless students.
“I used to be one of the many students who took this train to school, and it has witnessed my growing up,” said Han Lina, the conductor of the Baotou passenger traffic section.
Crossing the grasslands and the Gobi Desert and connecting remote communities of ethnic minorities, this slow train continues to carry the hopes and dreams of people living along the line and become an indispensable part of their lives.
As an important port on the Sino-Mongolian border, Erenhot is a place for both trade and cultural exchanges. Its train service not only satisfies the travel demands of passengers, but also promotes the blend and common development of people of all ethnic groups.
According to Han, Chinese of Mongolian ethnicity and people of Mongolia are the predominant groups of passengers commonly riding on the train. To better serve them, each crew has a conductor on duty who is proficient in Mongolian, and then during the off-duty period, crew members learn common Mongolian phrases by using translation software or online videos to better communicate with passengers.
The train crew shows respect to the Mongolian culture and customs by providing tailored services. For example, the dining carriage has long provided special delicacies from Inner Mongolia, such as lamb offal soup, milk tea, fried rice, and various dairy products like Mongolian clotted cream and dried milk cake, so that passengers can enjoy hometown food during their train trip.
According to Li Jie, who works at the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region Ethnic Affairs Commission, many of the stations along the train route are located in areas inhabited by ethnic minorities. As a result, every detail of the train from decorations, language service, and food to irregular theatrical performances reflects the strong ethnic characteristics of these areas. This not only enhances understanding between the people of all ethnic groups, but also provides an effective carrier for the exchanges and sharing between them. This plays an important role in promoting ethnic unity and rural revitalization.
A performing arts team from the Hohhot Railway Bureau puts up a show on the train on September 9, 2024.
The Beauty of Slow Traveling
Sitting on this slow train, drinking savory milk tea, listening to a melody played on the horse-head stringed instrument, and enjoying the beautiful scenery outside the window, people enjoy the beauty of slow traveling.
With the advancement of the cultural tourism industry, the slow train, which connects many scenic spots such as the Ulan Hada Volcanos, the Saihantala Hot Spring, and the Erenhot National Gate, is liked by countless travelers.
“My pension is not high, and this train is affordable. Without hustle, I can enjoy the great view outside the window and sometimes a performance in the carriage,” said Ms. Hu, who travels from Hohhot to Ulanqab to visit her granddaughter every week.
The boom in tourism and the increase in passenger flow along the route have injected new vitality into regional economic development. Some investors who have observed business opportunities have built unique homestays around the Ulan Hada Station.
Xu Hui runs a homestay named Jier Xiaozhan there. He is a designer who likes the style of the building – five Soviet-style bungalows that were built back in 1953. With the unique characteristics of the architecture, Xu saw an opportunity to develop tourism there.
While bullet trains shuttle passengers between major cities across China at lightning speeds, this slow train ending at China’s northern border continues its mission and responsibility in the new era of carrying the dreams and expectations of farmers and herdsmen along the line at the speed it has run for the last 30 years. Come what may, it gets its job done well. 
TANG JIALEI is a reporter at china.com.cn.
