A food stall at the Qianmen Night Market in Beijing. 

I have lived in China for several years, and visiting night fairs has become a part of my life. In Beijing, I often go to Guijie on weekends to discover new things. It’s a historical place with an enticing old name: Ghost Street. I am told this used to be a popular market in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and the oil lamps used in the stalls, giving a dim light and casting long shadows, made it look so eerie that people began to call it the Ghost Street.

There, I tasted stir-fried sliced lamb with scallion, which became one of my favorite dishes. In another famous night fair of Beijing, the Wangfujing Night Market, I had roasted scorpions, which, for the uninitiated, have a crispy seafood flavor, and I marveled at the variety of delicacies.

When I visited the seaside city of Xiamen in southeast China, I went to the night market in Kulangsu, an enchanting tiny island with enormous international connections, including several former foreign consulates that are now heritage buildings. I found excellent traditional handicrafts at some of the stalls and bought a small lantern made of bamboo and colored paper, resembling the traditional palace lanterns. When I came home and lighted it in my room, the warm light brightened up the entire space, making me feel as if I were in an ancient Chinese market.

A local specialties stall at a night market in Kashgar, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.

A Part of Chinese History

In the Wangfujing Night Market, I bought a traditional leather purse handmade by two local artisans. It has traditional Chinese patterns carved on the leather, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship. I felt as if I was holding a piece of Chinese history in my hands.

These souvenirs, which have become a part of my daily life, remind me of the unique experiences at the night fairs and represent my emotional connection with the Chinese culture. For me, visiting the night fairs of China is not a tourist activity but a personal habit that makes me feel integrated into local daily life. Each experience contains a small adventure filled with unique moments.

The origin of China’s night markets can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907), when they were an important component of social and economic life. They were not merely shopping places but vibrant spaces filled with historical stories, folk customs, and a variety of delicacies. Night fairs began to be restricted in 836, but the restrictions were gradually relaxed and in the Song Dynasty (960-1279), they became an indispensable part of urban nightlife. 

The ancient night fairs were typically held in bustling commercial areas, especially in large cities like Xi’an and Luoyang, and offered a wide variety of goods, ranging from agricultural products and handicrafts to food and beverages. They also served as entertainment venues, where plays, traditional dances, and acrobatic shows were held.

They were cultural and social exchange hubs, where people gathered to share news, stories, and experiences, relaxing and being entertained after a hard day’s work. With China becoming one of the world’s largest economies, the night fairs have also undergone significant transformations. In major cities, such as Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, they have become major tourist attractions.

A barbecue stall at a night market in Kashgar.

Food for the Soul

The aroma of grilled and stewed foods is a major component of the night fair experience. From the scent of lamb kebabs to the aromas of traditional street foods, such as dandan noodles and tofu pudding, they attract visitors to try unique foods. Each food carries a long history and stories about its ingredients and origin, making the night market also a place where different cultures and social groups converge.

The foods of China’s night fairs are an integral part of an invaluable cultural experience, a sensory adventure. It is about savoring a world reflecting the local history and culture. Stinky tofu is one of the most controversial foods in China’s night markets. Its strong smell may put some people off at first, but its unique taste, crispy outside and tender inside makes it one of the most popular snacks in the night market. Sugar-coated haws impaled on a stick are a traditional candy that adds a sweet flavor to the experience.

For foreign tourists, some of these delicacies present a challenge to the palate, requiring patience and a spirit of adventure, but this experience is undoubtedly worthwhile. The uniqueness of China’s night fair is the wide variety of dishes, and visitors can taste spicy, sweet, and fried food, discovering new flavors every time they explore.

Some of the vendors share the methods or history behind the foods with the visitors. Friendly conversations begin with discussions about food or cooking methods, providing a deeper understanding of the lives and lifestyles of contemporary Chinese.

The vibrant social venue also reflects the spirit of Chinese society. Families come together to dine, reflecting the importance of family bonds in Chinese culture.

As you weave through the food stalls, listening to vendors’ calls, you realize that the night market is also a fusion of the past and present, embodying the integration of China’s traditional identity with its progress and development, with modern technology like digital payments incorporated into it.

Sugar-coated haws on a stick are a cultural symbol of Beijing. Photos by Yu Xiangjun

Integrating Tradition and Modernity

Thanks to China’s remarkable development, night fairs have undergone significant changes as well. There have been marked improvements in their layouts, cleanliness, and service. In the past, the stalls were built haphazardly in narrow streets, resulting in crowding and chaos. But now, the night markets have become more orderly, with significant improvement in infrastructure. The passageways have become more spacious, better resting areas have been established, and higher standards of sanitation facilities provided.

With improved market environment and better organized stalls, the night markets remain an important component of the economic life in Chinese cities, serving as a primary source of income for many locals. Each purchase or dining experience directly supports this industry, strengthening the connection between the local community and tourists.