Fenghuang Ancient Town sits amongst rolling hills in Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture of Hunan Province, China. The town was established during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and peaked in prosperity during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. It has long boasted picturesque scenery and diverse ethnic cultures, and historically, was a military stronghold.

Today, Fenghuang, rated as a national 5A tourist attraction, is one of the most-visited ancient towns in China. Visitors flock to see the more than 120 well preserved traditional dwellings dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, with two sites under state protection. High on the viewing list are the North Gate Wharf, Hong Bridge, East Gate Tower, Fenghuang Ancient Town Museum, former residence of Shen Congwen, Chongde Hall, Wanshou Palace, and Ancestral Hall of the Yang Family.

Silt houses along the Tuojiang River create a breathtaking view.

Boat Ride Along the Tuojiang River

The Tuojiang River flows gently beside Fenghuang’s northern walls. At the North Gate Wharf, rows of small traditional boats are available for visitors to take a river cruise. The boats move past the well-known Hong (Rainbow) Bridge and the grand Wanshou Palace, while also giving visitors the chance to enjoy the view of rows of traditional ethnic wooden houses on the river’s bank.

The Hong Bridge, originally built during the Ming Dynasty, is one of the most famous landmarks of Fenghuang. The bridge supports an imposing tower building, adding an air of grandeur, below which the boats flow through three arches. It is especially beautiful at night when lit up, casting a warm reflective glow over the water.

On the riverside, Tujia people’s centuries-old wooden stilt houses are another signature attraction. These multi-story buildings feature mortise and tenon joints and curved eaves. Some boast intricately carved railings, doors, and windows. The ground floor is usually too damp for habitation as it is so close to the river, and thus often used as storage rooms or livestock pens.

After the boat cruise, it is worthwhile to take a stroll along the river and visit the Stepping Stone Bridge. It was first built during the Tang Dynasty and made up of dozens of stone blocks, not a typical design, but served as a pathway for villagers carrying goods into the town. Today, it is a popular attraction where many visitors wait in line to walk across it and experience this historical crossing point.

The East Gate Tower, located by the Tuojiang River, was built during the reign of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1661-1722). It is one of the four main gates of Fenghuang Ancient Town and is the only gate open to visitors. Soaring up from the ground, the tower has a solemn and imposing appearance. From the top, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the ancient town.

An old residential compound has been converted into a museum.

Old Residence and Ancestral Hall

Shen Congwen (1902-1988) was a renowned Chinese writer and historian, twice nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature. He spent his childhood and teenage years in Fenghuang, which became an important source of inspiration for his literary works. Both of his masterpieces Border Town and Recollections of West Hunan are set in west Hunan, depicting the social customs and scenery of the region. His former residence in Fenghuang, built by his ancestors in the late Qing Dynasty, is a 400-squaremeter quadrangle complex. It now houses a collection of old photographs and items of Shen Congwen open to the public.

The ancient town of Fenghuang not only boasts a wealth of talented scholars, but also has been home to numerous valiant warriors. In ancient times, Fenghuang was a key military stronghold and an essential part of the Southern Great Wall. The residents of this town were known for their courage and military skills.

Another famous site in the town is the Ancestral Hall of the Yang Family, built by the family of Yang Fang, a prominent general in the late Qing Dynasty. This hall served as a place for the Yang clan to hold ceremonies and discuss important matters. This north-facing compound, covering an area of 770 square meters, consists mainly of a main hall, a theatrical stage, and courtyards. Its intricate craftsmanship makes it a valuable resource for the study of ancestral hall culture and architectural art.

Tourists walking across the Stepping Stone Bridge in Fenghuang Ancient Town in June, 2024.

Chongde Hall and Wanshou Palace

Fenghuang, sitting on a key waterway link that connects southwest and east China, attracted many merchants from other places to do business in the past. Some of them bought land, built houses, and settled down there. Chongde Hall and Wanshou Palace are the legacies of these merchants.

Chongde Hall is a private residential compound built by Pei Shoulu during the Qing Dynasty. Pei, who came from Jiangxi Province, was the richest man in Fenghuang at that time. This typical southern-style quadrangle covers a total area of 622 square meters and has two floors. The first floor primarily includes a main hall, a dining room, and a rear garden, while the second floor contains bedrooms and studies. Today, Chongde Hall exhibits a collection of rare antiques and cultural relics gathered by Pei from across the country.

Wanshou Palace, also known as the Jiangxi Assembly Hall, was built by Jiangxi merchants during the Qing Dynasty. This compound is known for its intricately designed carvings, eaves, and winding corridors. This site has been converted into an art gallery displaying the paintings of Chinese artist Huang Yongyu.

Tourists dressed up in local ethnic costumes walk around Fenghuang.

Laid-Back Atmosphere

Locals in Fenghuang enjoy wearing colorful traditional costumes. Ethnic minority groups, such as the Miao and Tujia, make up 80 percent of Fenghuang’s total population. This ethnic diversity has created a unique regional culture. Some tourists embrace the local customs by dressing in Miao-style clothing while touring the town.

There are many alleys and old streets waiting to be explored. Visitors can spend a lot of time wandering around, taking photos, trying local food, and browsing local shops. At night, the town lights up and seems to take on a totally new personality. Illuminated buildings and towers are reflected in the water of Tuojiang River, while the streams of lively music in festive bars echo through the alleys. Many visitors come to Fenghuang particularly to enjoy the night views and unique photo opportunities.